| Stereotyped as staid and
strict, Singapore is refashioning itself into a hip
metropolis. It is one of the easiest Asian cities to navigate:
The trains and buses of the extensive Mass Rapid Transit (MRT)
system are air-conditioned, clean, and safe; taxis are honest
and plentiful. The two largest companies are CityCa
(6552-2222) and Comfort Cabs (6552-1111).
The country code for Singapore is 65. Prices quoted are
for the current month. The U.S. embassy is at 27 Napier Road
(6476-9100; singapore.usembassy.gov).
Lodging
Singapore's many luxury hotels are mostly clustered in the
Orchard Road shopping district and near the marina. Orchard
Road claims the serene Four Seasons, with an intimate,
almost residential feel (6734-1110; http://www.fourseasons.com/;
doubles, $290–$320; wheelchair-accessible). The gardenlike
setting of the Shangri-La and its quiet, formal service
recall the best English hotels (6737-3644; http://www.shangri-la.com/;
doubles, $175–$260; wheelchair-accessible). The stately Regent
is just far enough from the bustle of Orchard Road and just
close enough to the botanic gardens to make for quick shopping
or jogging excursions (6733-8888; http://www.fourseasons.com/;
doubles, $125–$208; wheelchair-accessible). The hip Grand
Hyatt has several fine restaurants (6738-1234; http://www.hyatt.com/;
doubles, $170–$205; wheelchair-accessible). Across the road,
the Hilton has a great shopping arcade and a rooftop
pool set amid tropical foliage (6737-2233; http://www.hilton.com/;
doubles, $140–$175; wheelchair-accessible). Goodwood Park
is typically Singaporean, with durian tea cakes for afternoon
tea and two excellent Szechuan restaurants (6737-7411; http://www.goodwoodparkhotel.com/;
doubles, $160–$280; wheelchair-accessible). Beautiful
architecture and tasteful decor distinguish the iconic Raffles
(6337-1886; http://www.raffles.com/;
doubles, $425–$530; wheelchair-accessible).
The second cluster, near the marina, shares great views of
the harbor. The Ritz-Carlton has a lovely atrium lobby
and sun-dappled restaurants and is within walking distance of
the Esplanade (6337-8888; http://www.ritzcarlton.com/;
doubles, $235–$340; wheelchair-accessible). Ditto the
dignified Fullerton, a former post office with three
great restaurants (6733-8388; http://www.fullertonhotel.com/;
doubles, $325–$435; wheelchair-accessible). After a
multimillion-dollar face-lift, the Oriental reopened
with the city's best spa (6338-0066; http://www.mandarinoriental.com/;
doubles, $157–$230; wheelchair-accessible). The Scarlet,
a new 84-room hotel, has a rare and welcome sexiness
(6511-3333; http://www.thescarlethotel.com/;
doubles, $90–$230).
Dining
American Club (21 Scotts Rd.; 6737-3411; http://www.amclub.org.sg/).
Canelé Pâtisserie (in the Centrepoint Mall;
6738-8145). Cedele by Bakery Depot (six locations,
including one at 01-13 Republic Plaza; 6532-6163; sandwiches,
$4–$7). Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (39 outlets; http://www.coffeebean.com.sg/).
Din Tai Fung (in the Paragon mall; 6836-8336;
dumplings, $3–$10). Dosa Corner (70 Serangoon Rd.;
6297-6297; dosas, about $4). Exotic Juice Cathay (01-19
Merah Lane; 9663-1648; juice drinks, $2). Garibaldi
(01-02 36 Purvis St.; 6837-1468; entrées, $19–$23). Ghaangothree
(5 Hindoo Rd.; 6296-6939; entrées, $8–$13). Jaan
(2 Stamford Rd.; 6837-3322; entrées, $15–$25). Jade
(in the Fullerton Hotel; 6877-8188; entrées, $17–$20). The
Line (in the Shangri-La Hotel; 6213-4275; entrées,
$15–$28). Ras (in Clarke Quay; 6837-2800; entrées,
$9–$16). St. Leaven bakery (in the Takashimaya
department store; 6738-1111). San Marco (in the
Fullerton Hotel; 6438-4404; entrées, $17–$24). Thanying
Express (in the Takashimaya department store food court;
entrées, $5–$10). Whatever (20 Keong Saik Rd.;
6221-0300; sandwiches, $5–$6).
Activities
Asian Civilisations Museum (two locations; 6332-7798; http://www.nhb.gov.sg/).
Clinique d'Esthetique (in the Takashimaya department
store; 6733-7000). Duck Tours (6333-3825; http://www.ducktours.com.sg/;
tours, $20). Esplanade (1 Esplanade Dr.; 6828-8222; http://www.esplanade.com/).
G-MAX Reverse Bungy (in Clark Quay; 6338-1146; http://www.gmax.co.nz/;
bungee jump, $18). Jurong Bird Park (2 Jurong Hill;
6265-0022; http://www.birdpark.com.sg/).
Night Safari (80 Mandai Lake Rd.; 6269-3411; http://www.zoo.com.sg/).
Singapore Art Museum (71 Bras Basah Rd.; 6332-3222; http://www.nhb.gov.sg/).
Singapore Botanic Gardens (1 Cluny Rd.; 6471-7361; http://www.sbg.org.sg/).
Singapore Philatelic Museum (23B Coleman St.;
6337-3888; http://www.spm.org.sg/).
Singapore Science Centre (15 Science Centre Rd.;
6425-2500; http://www.science.edu.sg/).
Spa Botanica (on Sentosa Island; 6371-1318; http://www.spabotanica.com/;
one-hour four-hands massage, $115). Underwater World (on
Sentosa Island; 6275-0030; http://www.underwaterworld.com.sg/;
dive with sharks, $58).
Shopping
Chinatown Complex (335 Smith St.). Eu Yan Sang (branches
throughout the city, including two at Changi Airport). The
Forum (583 Orchard Rd.; 6732-2479). Mumbai Sé (390
Orchard Rd.; 6733-7188; http://www.mumbaise.com.sg/).
Mustafa Center (145 Syed Alwi Rd.; 6295-5855). Palais
Renaissance (390 Orchard Rd.; 6737-1520). Paragon
(290 Orchard Rd.; 6738-5535). Suntec City Shopping Mall (3
Temasek Blvd.; 6334-2372). Takashimaya (391 Orchard
Rd.; 6732-6626). Tang (320 Orchard Rd.; 6737-5500). Yue
Hwa Chinese Products Ltd. (70 Eu Tong Sen St.; 6538-9233; http://www.yuehwa.com.sg/).
Nightlife
Aphrodisiac (47 Club St.; 6325-8529). Attica (in
Clarke Quay; 6333-9973). Bar Opiume (1 Empress Pl.;
6339-2876). Carnivore (in Chijmes; 6334-9927). China
Jump Bar and Grill (in Chijmes; 6338-9388). Este
(in Clarke Quay; 6338-0712). Father Flanagan's (in
Chijmes; 6333-1418). Gotham Penthouse (in Clarke Quay;
6339-5595). La Cave Wine Bar (in Chijmes; 6337-9717). 1
Nite Stand (in Clarke Quay; 6334-1954). Phuture (17
Jiak Kim St.; 7382-2988). Velvet Underground (17 Jiak
Kim St.; 6738-2988). Zenzie Bar (in Clarke Quay;
6339-5787). Zouk (17 Jiak Kim St.; 6738-2988).
Hawker Markets
Alexandra Village Hawker Centre (behind the row of shop
houses directly opposite Queens.way). Lau Pa Sat Festival
Market (at Raffles Quay, Financial District). Maxwell
Road Food Centre (Maxwell and South Bridge Rds.,
Chinatown). Newton Circus Food Centre (Scotts Rd.,
Newton). Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre (Seng Poh
Rd. at Outram Rd., just past the expressway).
Temples
Leong San See (371 Race Course Rd.). Sakya Muni
Buddha Gaya (366 Race Course Rd.). Sri Mariamman (244
South Bridge Rd.). Sri Veeramakaliamman (Serangoon Rd.
at Veerasamy Rd.). Sultan Mosque (3 Muscat St.). Thian
Hock Keng (158 Telok Ayer St.).
From the July 2005 issue of TIME Asia Magazine
Copyright © 2005 Time Inc. All rights reserved.
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