| |
|
 |
|
|
Articles > Magazines > New Age > Essential Oils
|
|
|
Essential Oils
- By Shoba Narayan
(This article originally appeared in
March 2001)
|
|
|
|
I am a closet oil-aholic. I stir-fry with sesame oil, massage with almond oil, cook with canola oil, drizzle olive oil on bread, walnut or avacado oil on salad, and swallow flaxseed oil raw because of its healthy Omega-3 fatty acids. I even fantasize about oil. When my meditation teacher asks me to think of something relaxing, I dream of receiving a scalp massage with warm, fragrant mustard oil. For a long time, my culinary fix-it was, "When in doubt, just add oil."
Chef Tony Ambrose of Ambrosia on Huntington in Boston agrees with me. "Oils are an absolute necessity for great cooking," he says. "Oils are an introduction to fat and fat is the number one luxury in cooking, be it foie gras or caviar or even the humble avacado."
The problem is that Tony and I are a minority these days, what with various 'heart-healthy' diets that have virtually outlawed the use of oils. "We've been on a fat-free kick since the early seventies," says Ann Louise Gittleman, a nutritionist and author of 'Eat Fat Lose Weight'. "Most people suffer from a condition that I call Fear of Fat. They believe it is the bad-guy nutrient in American diets. That is misguided and incorrect because while some fats are harmful, other fats are absolutely critical to the healthy functioning of our bodies."
Oils provide some of these 'critical' fats to our bodies. Sound contradictory? It did to me, having long associated fat with cholesterol and all its negative consequences. After all, cholesterol is a type of fat that the liver manufactures to aid its secretion of bile acids, sex hormones and steroids. Like all fats, cholesterol does not dissolve in blood and is transported within the body by special carrier cells called lipoproteins. In fact, what we refer to as 'good' and 'bad' cholesterol are these lipoproteins. Low Density Lipoproteins (LDLs) carry cholesterol to the body cells, leading to plaque and arteriosclerosis, which is why they are called 'bad' cholesterol. High Density Lipoproteins (HDLs) carry excess cholesterol away from the body cells back to the liver where it is transformed into bile and used or excreted. Hence the moniker 'good' cholesterol. It would make sense then, that we should increase the amount of HDLs in our body and drastically reduce the amount of LDLs. That's where the Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) come into the picture.
Fatty acids are of two types: saturated and unsaturated. Saturated fatty acids from animal products such as meat and dairy are not essential since the human body makes all it needs. Saturated fats clog up arteries and interfere with the body's ability to function efficiently. Essential Fatty Acids, on the other hand, are the good guys in human nutrition. Not only do EFAs reduce total cholesterol levels, but they also increase the concentration of 'good' HDLs and reduce the concentration of 'bad' LDLs. "Essential Fatty Acids are just as important as vitamins and minerals," says Dr. Alice Lichtenstein, professor of nutrition at Tufts University's School of Nutrition Science and Policy, Boston. "They cannot be synthesized by our body and so you have to consume moderate quantities of oils, fish and nuts to get these nutrients."
There are two kinds of EFAs: polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), and monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs). Oils are a great source of PUFAs and MUFAs. The question is which oils to use? According to Columbia University's Health Education program, coconut oil, palm oil and palm kernel oil are undesirable since they contain a high percentage of saturated fat. Olive, flaxseed, and walnut oil contain a high percentage of monounsaturated fatty acids. Safflower, sunflower, corn, Canola and grapeseed oils contain a high percentage of polyunsaturated fatty acids. A good compromise would be to include both olive (high in MUFAs) and vegetable (high in PUFAs) oils. But remember, the body doesn't need much. As Dr. Lichtenstein says, moderation is key.
With any kind of oil, you have to watch out for hydrogenation, a process by which hydrogen is bubbled through oils to increase their shelf life. Hydrogenation converts unsaturated fats into saturated fats, thus depriving oils of those very fatty acids that make them beneficial. Dr. Earl Mindell, author of the 'Vitamin Bible,' 'Herb Bible' and 'Prescription Alternatives,' cautions against buying hydrogenated oils. "Most of the oils in grocery stores won't even say that they have been hydrogenated, or that they contain trans-fatty acids which will speed up the hardening of the arteries," says Dr. Mindell. Transfatty acids contain two hydrogen atoms on opposite sides of a double bond, and cause higher plasma cholesterol levels.
The trick is to read the labels. When I checked the labels of my Canola oil, supposedly high in PUFAs, I found nothing. Zero. The saturated fat content, however, was 5 percent. The same applied to my store-bought olive oil. It contained no monounsaturated fat but was high in saturated fat. Obviously hydrogenated.
When buying oils, look for cold-pressed oil from your local health food store or gourmet market. Manufacturers use heat or chemical solvents such as hexane to increase the amount of oil extracted, but heats and chemicals reduce the EFAs found in oils. Cold-pressed extra-virgin oil preserves these essential nutrients. "If you can't afford the expensive cold-pressed oil, break out a capsule of Vitamin E and mix it with the oil," says Dr. Mindell. "This will neutralize the effect of hydrogenation on these oils."
All oils start to go rancid through oxidization as soon as the bottles are opened. So don't leave the bottles open longer than necessary and store them in opaque containers in cool, dark places. Once you get used to the taste and smell of cold-pressed oils, it will be hard to go back to the bland grocery store substitutes. Here are a few oils that got me started.
Olive Oil:
This is the mother of all oils, and perhaps the most popular cooking medium in the world. Olive trees have been around for over 6000 years and olive oil has been the cooking oil for many cultures including Greek, Egyptian, and Mediterranean. Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, recommended olive oil for ulcers, cholera, gallbladder problems, and muscular pains. Scientific research has now substantiated what the ancient healers knew--that olive oil, with its high concentration of essential fatty acids helps prevent cardiovascular diseases. Besides MUFAs, olive oil contains a third kind of fatty acid, oleic acid or Omega-9, says Jean Barilla, a health consultant and author of 'Olive Oil Miracle.' "Oleic acid keeps our arteries flexible by increasing the incorporation of omega-3 fats into the arterial membranes," says Barilla. "This allows essential nutrients to get into the cells and slows the cellular aging." Besides, it is, as Mario Batali, Chef at Babbo, in New York says, one of the best cooking oils. "Extra virgin olive oil encapsulates the entire olive culture of Italy and the entire Mediterranean," raves Batali. "It represents a healthy way of living and eating and adds immensely to the quality and flavor of life."
Canola oil:
Canola is a combination of two words: Canada and Oil. As the name indicates, Canada is the biggest producer of Canola oil. But Canola and rapeseed are not the same. In the seventies, Canadians began breeding the canola plant with its yellow flowers all through the plains of Saskatchewan. Canola has less glucosinolates (which contribute to the sharp taste of mustard and rapeseed oils) and contains the lowest percentage of saturated fat. It is second only to olive oil in its percentage of healthy monounsaturated fatty acids; it also has moderate amounts of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, making it an all around healthful, reasonably priced cooking oil. Canola oil's high smoke-point makes it ideal for fonduing, stir-frying and deep fat frying. Since it is practically flavorless, it is a versatile cooking oil. Some people like to mix olive oil with canola oil, preferring its lighter taste. Eric Di Domenico, the Chef at La Caravelle, a prominent New York French restaurant uses Canola and Olive oils in a 70-30 combination for all his cooking. He says that Canola oil works well, both for quickly sautéing a piece of salmon, or to slowly caramelize a piece of beef. "It is easy to use, takes on the flavors of the food beautifully, and works well at all temperatures," he says.
Sesame Oil:
The Chinese love the nutty taste of dark sesame oil, which they use for stir-frying. Sesame cakes fed the armies of Rome, Turkey and Greece. Indigenous to Central Africa, the sesame plant is now grown in Egypt and India, where it is used as the primary cooking oil. The benefits of sesame oil is its 'complementarity," according to Betty Kamen, a nutritionist and contributor to the "Nutrition Super Book, The Good Fats and Oils." It is polyunsaturated, and contains an unusual combination of amino acids that will complement other proteins. The first, methionine, maintains healthy liver function and the second amino acid, tryptophan, promotes youthful skin and healthy hair. Sesame also contains a large percentage of the required B vitamins. Indian women use sesame oil as a moisturizer and imbibe it to improve the quality of their breast milk. Floyd Cardoz, the chef at Tabla in New York uses sesame oil as a seasoning in his Asian fusion cooking. "The trick with sesame oil is to using it sparingly," he says. "Toasted sesame oil has a very strong flavor and will suppress other flavors if used in excess."
Flaxseed Oil:
Flaxseed oil is the health establishment's latest darling. With a high concentration of Omega-3 fatty acids, its enthusiasts claim that it can reduce heart attacks and strokes, lower harmful blood cholesterol levels with its soluble fibers, improve moods, diminish allergies, improve the quality of skin, hair and nails, and prevent colon and breast cancer since it is a rich source of lignin, a documented anticancer agent. In his Web site, Dr. Andrew Weil recommends adding ground flaxseed to your breakfast cereal or juice.
Flaxseed has existed for 5000 years, but only recently have its health benefits been documented. Flaxseed oil must be handled carefully. Buy small quantities in opaque containers and store in the refrigerator. Since heating the oil destroys its effectiveness, most people consume this oil raw, or smear it on pasta or bread after cooking. While flax oil can be used in the dough for baking, it cannot be used for basting, grilling or lining pans. It is good for salads and flaxseed bread, which is common in Europe.
Grapeseed Oil:
Chefs love this oil for its neutral, light taste. Like other vegetable oils, it is high in the beneficial polyunsaturated fats. Chef Tony Ambrose sautés all his fish in great seed oil. "It is thin, has a neutral flavor, burns at a high heat, is fresher and less likely to become rancid," he says. Many chefs use grapeseed oil as the base for infusion. Ambrose also steeps salmon in grapeseed oil at 275 degrees for about four hours to make infused salmon oil and other fish oils.
Avocado Oil:
Ambrose also uses avocado oil to saute fish and vegetables. "It has a rich, oily flavor, and the avocado is a great vegetable oil with a fruity taste," he says. Predictably, California is the largest producer of avocado oil. It is high in monounsaturated fats that can help reduce cholesterol. Although this is a mild, flavorless oil that can be combined with all types of food, it breaks down at high heat and hence, is best suited for salads or vinaigrettes. Avocados contain tyramine, which may cause problems for those taking in MA0-inhibitor antidepressants.
Truffle Oils:
Chefs, especially French and Italian ones, love truffle oils, which they fold into everything from roasts to risottos. Truffle oil isn't cheap-- $29 for 8 ounces of White Truffle Oil at Earthy Delights (www.earthy.com) and $22.50 for Black Truffle Oil. But their musky aroma is hard to duplicate. Truffles are a tuberous mushroom that grow underground and were made famous by Peter Mayle in his book, "A Year in Provence." Highly prized, they impart an intense aroma, albeit at a price that the average cook cannot afford. Bob Calderone, Chef Owner of Anago in Boston, buys truffle oil to drizzle on dishes just before they go to the table. "We have a grilled lobster and chanterelle mushroom dish that we drizzle truffle oil on, and it imparts and wonderful flavor," says Calderone.
Walnut Oil:
Bobby Flay, the Chef at Mesa Grill loves walnut oil, which he drizzles over winter salads like peppery greens, arugula and goat cheese, apples and pears. "It adds a wonderful nutty flavor," says Flay, who never cooks in Walnut oil for fear that it might 'bitter.' It helps that walnut oil is high in cholesterol-lowering PUFAs. Some of the best walnut oils come from France where it is used as a salad dressing, or over rice and steamed vegetables. Since it has such a strong taste and is quite expensive ($8.99 for 12 Oz at Timberwolforganics.com), a more reasonable option would be to mix it with bland oils like Canola or Safflower oil.
Infused Oils:
The range of infused oils currently on grocery shelves is quite stunning: rosemary oil, chile oil, garlic oil, sage oil, the list goes on. Olive and Canola oils are a favorite medium for infusion. Chefs everywhere routinely infuse oils. Floyd Cardoz and Mario Batali infuse pumpkinseeds into oil. Bobby Flay at Mesa Grill infuses cilantro and chives in Canola oil or grapeseed oil. The chefs at Daniel use a variety of infused oils, all made in their own kitchen.
Patricia Betty, an aromatherapist, who routinely infuses her oils, has the following tips: "Start out with a good base oil like extra virgin olive oil, which is liver and gall bladder friendly and is great for circulation. Make sure that the herbs are totally dry after you wash them. Put them in the oven at low heat to remove the last water droplet from them. If any water gets in, it will spoil the infusion. Consider adding spices to the infusion, like powdered cayenne, cinnamon, or ginger. Spices retard spoilage and add antioxidants. Once you put the dry herbs and spices in the oil, bottle it up tightly and store in a dark place for a few weeks or months- the longer the better."
Bob Calderone infuses olive oil with peeled garlic cloves, which he sets over medium heat till the garlic is tender. Sometimes he adds fresh herbs like rosemary, thyme, or a herb puree when the oil is hot. "We might even throw in some crushed red pepper for the flavor, let the oil cool and store in the refrigerator," says
Calderone.
This article originally appeared in
March 2001.
Copyright © 2001 New Age. All rights reserved. |
|
|
writer :: reporter :: foodie :: mom
